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The Bright Angel Trail '73

by Tony Whitaker

South Rim sunrise
and we were embraced
by a cool breeze on our face
diamonds sparkled on sparse grass
the morning dew scattered light
like prismatic glass

Staring down from the rim
and stunned from the view
eight miles down and back
we would do

Terra firma’s splendid abyss
tall walls brought a depth delight
overwhelmed by the sight
felt a sweet bliss
no placed on earth
can command such a site

Eyes traced the trail to Plateau Point
only a mile from there to the river
already this trail would make a tale
and my heart began a quiet quiver

our teen spirit felt no fear
with impatience we put our boots in high gear
the first few miles as we flew
we made echoes from such childish hoots

At first we walked…our parapet…with some fear
for the fall…to the bottom…would be shear
but as teens we played strong
any fear and the other had won

As we walked along sandstone walls
awash in earthen hues
such a perfect painted strata
in my mind I made rhymes to this muse

Wind and water sculpted shapes
a time-worn weathered look
of towering layered cakes
or leaves of a geologic book

We slowed some to talk
or forced to stop as we would gawk
from some view which stopped us cold
the Grand’s glorious beauty to behold

We once spied on high a red hawk
diving to its prey so far below
but we tried to eye its prize
all we saw was our future plateau

From the rim so full of life
to the bottom where huge rocks lay nude
scraped by the hands of the Colorado
which cut the Grand Canyon in two

The sun resolute in its grade
we started with each rounded bend
to scan ahead for the next shade
a welcome refuge from our warm friend

We reached the Indian Gardens
at noon knowing we were halfway down
an oasis with shade and water
salient shield to an incalescent June

A light lunch and we drank
smiling filled our canteens
our young legs were ready to crank
being we were only nineteen

When we reached Plateau Point
pack mules passively passed our way
their riders wore wonder in their way
even with sure death if their mounts did astray

When we eyed her blue glow
our feet fueled us to our jeweled pool
to the banks of the mighty Colorado
which cut the Grand Canyon in two

Off with our boots and socks
our feet scampered over the rocks
we shoved them in the river
the cold water quick made us shiver

I ate a pack of nabs and I sipped
then in the rapids we saw this slip
filled with eight and their guide
wide-eyed tourists hiding fear with their smiles

Finding a thermometer on a post
It was a hundred and five
and sure to go even higher
so we stayed no more than an hour

Like Bolero’s relentless beat
the sun’s crescendo heat
and the sweat poured once again down our backs
adding weight to our lightweight packs

How I remember the plateau leg
waterless and beyond our means
in heat that could fry a large egg
what I’d give for a full cold canteen

Our foot falls slowed their pace
with no shade to shield our face
on this well-worn route to Hell
as our tongues began to swell

No words we spoke so drained
and slowly we became insane
when suddenly in the shimmering heat
We squeaked out a yell
as the Gardens now lay at our feet

our minds calmed in time
and our sun blind eyes said we had time
as we were wasted in our oasis
the wet of water
will never taste
quite the same

Only an hour did we stop
we should try to make the top
finally we just began again
straight up
four miles
and in pain

As the sun began to set
I recall my eyes filled with tears
dried by Bright Angel’s sweet breath
as we took our last steps into the clear

We then hobbled like old men
to remove from the trunk waiting friends
an ice-filled cooler packed with cold beer
tasting sweet as we drank and we cheered

So if you decide to walk down to the river
which cut the Canyon in two
don’t do it in a day in the summer
like us soon you’ll call you a fool

07/01/2007

Author's Note: Greg Albert, my best bud in the Army, and I walked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back in one day. The Park Ranger who wrote us our permit told us not to try it in one day, especially in the heat we would encounter. SO he wrote the permit for two days and we just laughed like lambs being led to their slaughter! But the beer was sure good afterwards...

Posted on 07/01/2007
Copyright © 2026 Tony Whitaker

Member Comments on this Poem
Posted by David R Spellman on 07/01/07 at 01:59 PM

A friend and I backpacked from the south rim to the north at the end of June '83. Spent four days and three nights crossing, the first part along the exact trails you write about here. REALLY HOT! down there at that time of the year and I can certainly empathize with your thirst. You have described your trip and the canyon so well and it brought back many memories. Thanks for sharing this with us.

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